Save As grocery stores shelves emptied at the beginning of the pandemic, Terrol Dew Johnson saw a spike in interest among young people eager to reconnect with their Tohono O'odham heritage of harvesting and preparing wild desert foods. For about 30 years, Johnson ran Tohono O'odham Community Action, a nonprofit focused on traditional foods and culture. TOCA disbanded several years ago and scaled back to focus on farming, he says. Johnson grew up with grandparents who regularly took him to pick saguaro fruit in the summers and wild spinach each winter, but he knows not all tribal members share those experiences or his interest. And for those newly interested, he knows not all will stick it out.
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